Iznik Derbent Weaving

İznik Derbent Weaving is a type of weaving produced in the İznik district of Bursa using traditional methods with wool, cotton and linen yarns. It is made in patterned or plain forms and has diverse applications ranging from coverings and undergarments to kilims and bags. Production began in 1924 in Derbent Village and gradually spread throughout İznik, becoming an integral part of the region’s economic and cultural structure. Traditional colors such as black, burgundy, navy, red, green and yellow dominate the designs, while original motifs including double pot, fern, broken meter and duck form the characteristic patterns of this craft.

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Traditionally, black, burgundy, navy, green, red and yellow are preferred colors, although other colors may be applied based on preference. The fineness and thickness of the yarns used depend on the intended use of the product, with 20, 30, 40 and 50 count warp yarns commonly selected. Cotton, linen or wool yarns may be used individually or in combination, and production can also be carried out using yarns with different properties. The width and length of the textiles vary according to the product being produced.

The origins of İznik Derbent weaving trace back to 1924 in Derbent Village, located in the İznik district of Bursa. Over time, production expanded to cover the entire İznik district. İznik Derbent weaving plays a significant role in both the regional economy and its traditions. Therefore, a direct link exists between the geographic boundary and the production process.

İznik Derbent weaving is typically produced on a dirty white or cream-colored background. Traditional motifs include double pot, fern, broken meter, side pass, duck, drumstick, tefe, islihas leaf, bird’s eye, crossed islihas, knife tip and ball of yarn. These motifs serve as both visual and functional identifiers in the textiles.

• Yağlık: A textile woven with colored cotton yarn and then embellished on the loom with colored threads and silver wire. Used as a prize in oil wrestling, it also serves as decoration for bridal carriages, bridal trousseau bags, household coverings or hand towels.
• Çevre: Floral patterns are embroidered on plain cotton fabric using colored threads on the loom. Used in bridal trousseau bags and as a symbolic handkerchief sent from the bride’s home to the groom’s home.
• Kuşak: Woven in the form of a cord from wool or cotton yarn, with tassels added at both ends. Usually red and white in color, it is worn as a belt.
• Döşek: A colored striped wool weaving that functions as a floor mat.
• Kilim: Woven with wool yarn in red, blue, green and yellow colors.
• Çerga: A black and white striped wool weaving used as a covering by women during the olive harvest in November to protect against the cold.
• Torba: Made from black and white striped wool fabric, sewn into a bag shape and equipped with a strap woven in a braided pattern using wool yarn.
• Gömlek: Typically produced from plain white or red-striped cotton fabric, with needle lace applied at the sleeve openings. Used as undergarments and included in bridal trousseaus.
• Don: Woven from cotton yarn with colored patterns applied via needle lace on the leg sections. Worn by men as undergarments and by women beneath skirts so that the leg patterns are visible.
• Çendele: Patterned weaving made from red and burgundy wool yarn, fashioned as an apron and fastened at the waist with a belt.
• Raramka: A black and white striped wool weaving used by women to prevent their headscarves from getting wet while carrying water.
• Fisto: A fine wool weaving with black and white stripes, used in skirt production.
• Uçkur: Woven in belt form from cotton yarn with patterns at the ends. Used to tie the waist of don garments.
• Peşkir: A towel-like textile woven from cotton yarn with colored patterns at the ends. Given as a gift in bridal trousseaus or during ceremonies.
• Ekmek Bezi: Woven in stripes using red, white and navy cotton yarns. Used to keep food warm, wrap bread when going to the field, or wrap yogurt containers.
• Çarşaf / Kırpa: Woven from red and white cotton yarn with striped patterns and border motifs, used for covering purposes.

The motifs used in these textiles include ball of yarn, jug, flower in pot, tulip, geranium, spotted cherry, bird’s eye, broken meter, fern, clover, tefe, snake curve, drumstick, duck, side pass, crossed islihas and knife tip, along with various geometric patterns. These motifs contribute to both visual variety and the traditional character of the weaving.

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All stages of İznik Derbent weaving production must take place within the boundaries of the İznik district of Bursa. This geographic connection is maintained through the transmission of traditional knowledge and regional production practices.

İznik Derbent weaving was registered as a geographical indication on 16 May 2023 under number 1357. The application number is C2022/000334, with the application date being 5 October 2022. The registering authority is İznik Municipality, located at Selçuk Mah. Rauf Denktaş Cad. No: 65/A İznik, Bursa. This geographical indication, in the form of a certification mark, must appear on the product or its packaging as the inscription “İznik Derbent Weaving” together with the certification mark emblem. If it cannot be placed on the product or packaging, the inscription and emblem must be displayed in a clearly visible location within the production facility.

The production process of İznik Derbent weaving is monitored under the coordination of İznik Municipality. The monitoring body consists of experts selected from İznik Municipality, İznik Women Producers Development Cooperative and İznik Community Education Center. Monitoring is conducted annually, but additional inspections may be carried out at any time in response to complaints or as deemed necessary. During inspections, the suitability of yarn types used, the conformity of motifs to traditional characteristics, the accuracy of the production method, and the proper use of the “İznik Derbent Weaving” inscription and certification mark emblem are verified. The monitoring body may obtain services from public or private institutions or individual experts when needed. The registering authority has the legal authority to pursue legal proceedings to protect the rights associated with this geographical indication.