Üzümlü Dastarı / Yeşilüzümlü Dastarı

Üzümlü Dastarı is a handwoven textile produced using traditional methods in the village of Yeşilüzümlü, within the district of Fethiye in Muğla Province, and officially registered with a geographical indication. Registered as a certification mark on 20 November 2020, this fine cotton weaving reflects the cultural heritage of the region.

^{Üzümlü Dastarı} (AA)

The product is woven on handlooms using 100 percent cotton yarn. It is produced in a natural cream tone characteristic of raw cotton and gradually whitens with use and washing. Two key features distinguish the Üzümlü Dastarı from other textiles:

1. Twisted yarn usage: Yarns twisted an average of 600 to 800 times give the weave a flexible wavy and crinkled texture. This structure provides coolness in summer and warmth in winter. After washing, the fabric shrinks by approximately 10 percent.
2. Patterned weaving technique: Motifs known as “nakış” or “yanış” are inserted during weaving using specialized techniques. These motifs are the most distinctive element that sets the Üzümlü Dastarı apart from other textiles.

Originally woven by women as headscarves, the dastarı is now used in various applications including children’s, women’s and men’s clothing. The headscarf version consists of two panels joined together. Each panel measures 65 to 70 centimeters in width and 150 to 180 centimeters in length.

• Yarns: 20/1 Nm raw cotton yarn is used for both warp and weft; motif areas use bleached thick cotton yarn (4 to 5 times thicker).
• Thread density: 12 threads per centimeter in the warp and 14 threads per centimeter in the weft.
• Loom type: Woven on “düven” shuttle looms using a “bezaayağı” weave technique.

In Yeşilüzümlü, in addition to the dastarı, other textiles are produced for different purposes:

• Mendil: Woven in striped patterns using cotton and wool yarns; used as coverings or trousseau items.
• Göynek: Woven in striped patterns using wool cotton and silk yarns; worn beneath three petticoats as traditional local attire.
• Kanat: Narrow-width patterned weaves; available in plain or “paşa kenarlı” varieties.

• Snake Motif: Woven in zigzag lines along the warp direction; symbolizes protection against envy and the evil eye.
• Leech Motif: Composed of three dots arranged diagonally; represents sorrow distress and grief.
• Stick Motif: Four dots placed into each other’s gaps; signifies beauty and cleanliness.
• Kilim Motif: Woven with diagonal dots forming a baklava shape; expresses vitality joy and enthusiasm.
• Ulama Motif: Woven in a checkerboard pattern with no empty spaces on the surface; the most difficult motif requiring high skill.
• Circassian Motif: Two stick motifs connected by a single dot; commonly used as a combined or scattered motif.
• Pumpkin Flower Motif: Created using large rectangles to form a star-shaped flower; inspired by Feretiko textiles.
• Daisy Motif: Made by adding a stick motif to the intersection of two leech motifs; used as a scattered or combined motif.
• Camel Foot Motif: Formed by connecting four incomplete square threads; represents strength and abundance.

^{Üzümlü Dastarı} (AA)

The arrangement of motifs is also a crucial factor determining the character of the textile. A single motif can be scattered regularly across the surface in both horizontal and vertical directions; different motifs can be distributed together at specific intervals; motifs can be continued uninterrupted along the weave or reoriented to create asymmetrical placements. A motif combination can be placed at the center like a medallion; motifs may be placed only at the corners; they can be arranged along the edges or central section in a “suyolu” pattern; in garments motifs may be positioned at specific areas such as the neckline or hem. These placement patterns are shaped according to the intended use of the textile both aesthetically and functionally.

The production of the Üzümlü Dastarı is intrinsically linked to the village of Yeşilüzümlü. All production stages must occur within this geographical boundary. Oversight inspections are conducted at least once annually under the coordination of the Fethiye Municipality. These inspections verify yarn properties production methods motif placement and the correct use of the certification mark.