Ankara's Secret Treasure: Erkeç Pastırma

When you think of pastırma, you usually imagine the delicious meat product made from beef, right? But Ankara has a unique pastırma made exclusively from the meat of a special breed of male goat! It is called "Ankara Erkeç Pastırması." This pastırma is one of the capital’s most secretive and valuable culinary treasures, renowned for both its flavor and its history. Even Evliya Çelebi described the secret of this centuries-old taste in his Seyahatname. Let us embark together on a journey to discover this extraordinary flavor.

"Erkeç" is the term used for male Ankara goats older than four years, a breed famous for its fine fleece. Only the meat of these specific goats is used to make this pastırma. Ankara goats graze naturally on the mountains and plateaus around Ankara, feeding on hundreds of different plant species. This rich diet imparts to their meat a unique flavor and aroma (rayiha) found nowhere else. To prevent the meat from absorbing the "teke kokusu" — the distinctive odor of the male goat — a special method is employed during processing. As a result, Erkeç Pastırması possesses a distinctive and exceptional aroma unlike any other pastırma you have tasted.

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Making Ankara Erkeç Pastırması is a long process requiring patience and expertise. It begins with selecting the finest goats and carefully cutting the best cuts of meat — such as the tenderloin and sirloin. These cuts are first cured for several days in coarse salt. Then they are air-dried in the shade, and sometimes gently pounded with wooden mallets. Once the meat has lost nearly half its original weight and is thoroughly dried, it undergoes the famous "çemenleme" process. The surface of the meat is thinly coated — just 0.5–1 mm — with a fragrant mixture of çemen herb, garlic, and red pepper. This çemen not only enhances the flavor but also acts as a natural preservative.

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At the end of this lengthy process, the pastırma is ready to be enjoyed. It is typically sliced paper-thin for serving. The fat of the Erkeç pastırma is evenly distributed between the muscle fibers, giving it an exceptional tenderness. Its flavor is a harmonious blend of the mountain plants of Ankara and traditional drying methods. This taste is so uniquely tied to Ankara that it is protected under a Geographical Indication known as "Menşe Adı." This means that authentic Ankara Erkeç Pastırması can only be produced within the boundaries of Ankara Province.